ARTICLES

 

Native Flax and Astelia

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

 

            I lump flax and astelia together, because they are so similar in appearance - both with wide fronds growing from ground level, without any woody stems.

            There are only two species of flax, both native to New Zealand - Phormium tenax (swamp flax or Harakeke), and Phormium cookianum (Mountain Flax or Wharariki). 
            Swamp flax, grows naturally in swamps, and damp low-lying places. It is a grey-green colour and gets to about 2.5m high. In summer, seed stalks grow up to 4-5m high. Tuis sit on the stalks and help themselves to nectar, and later the seeds.
            It is tough, not being bothered by wind, frost or pests and disease. Moreover, it is very versatile - even though it naturally prefers, wet, low places, it can be grown successfully in moderately dry conditions.
            It’s size makes it difficult for some gardens, but the distinctive colour and impressive seed stalks make for a bold feature plant.
            One interesting possibility, is as a hedge. It grows high enough to provide low-level shelter from wind, but doesn’t get too high, or require topping or side-trimming.

            Mountain Flax, grows naturally in mountains, in open or lightly shaded places; and also on hillsides near the coast. It is a lighter green than tenax, and smaller; growing to about 1.5m high.       It is similarly tough. Dry to moist soils are preferred (not wet ones). Seems to like banks, but will grow quite happily on flat sites. 
            In gardens, it is good as a bold backdrop - either singly or in a group. If you have a large bank or hillside to cover, a lot of mountain flax would be a good choice.

            There are a bewildering number of different forms and ornamental cultivars - most of which are smaller growing, so better suited to gardens. Almost all colours of the rainbow - although I haven’t noticed any blue flaxes as yet.
            The most useful cultivars are those which don’t get very big. ‘Rainbow Queen’ (bronzy green with rosy pink stripes) does grow pretty big, to about 1.8m; ‘Yellow Wave’ (green with yellow stripes), about 1m.
And there are some even smaller; such as ‘Thumbellina’ (only 30cm, purple colour), ‘Jack Spratt’ (60cm, purple), ‘Green Dwarf’ (75cm, narrow green fronds), ‘Evening Glow’ (75cm, reddish).
            Two rather stylish cultivars are – ‘Dark delight’ (1.3m, a rich, dark purple, almost black); and, ‘Jester’ (80cm, an unusual combination of bright green and red).

            Astelias are similar looking, but on closer inspection - their fronds arise from more individual stalks than flax. They also are nowhere near as tough, so growing conditions will have to be selected more carefully than for flax.
            Of 7 New Zealand species, one (Astelia chathamica) is very popular and readily available; (the others less so). It is sometimes (incorrectly) called ‘Silver Spear’. Astelia chathamica is popular because of the distinct silvery satin-like sheen on it’s light green fronds. This silver is more pronounced as the plant grows bigger - if it likes your place, eventually getting to about 1.3m high.
            Chathamica is frost hardy, and should grow ok in any well drained soil, in sun or moderate shade; including coastal places (but not fully exposed to wind).  All in all, a beauty.
            Actually, there is a more silvery Astelia - Astelia banksii.  It’s fronds are narrower than chathamica, with a more pronounced silver colour. However, it is also harder to grow successfully - needing shade, moist soil, and no frost. I planted one near Rotorua, in a place I thought had protection from frost - at the first frost it died (stone dead).
            Other Astelias generally, need shade and moist soil to do well. Very handy actually, for planting under trees - for example, Astelia fragrans, grandis, nervosa. A. nervosa will also grow ok out in the sun, providing the soil is moist.
           

Finally, there are some different coloured varieties of Astelia – such as ‘Westland’, basically bronze with purplish tonings – stylish.

 

 

Names of Plants

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

 

            The official system for the naming of plants is a bit like the oft-quoted ‘can of worms’ - once you open it, you don’t much like what you see. To those of us who did not learn latin (or botany) along the way, the botanical naming system seems somewhat strange - not very ‘user-friendly’.
            However, if you can’t beat ‘em - join ‘em. Actually, it’s like computers - not too bad, once you become familiar with it.

 

            Plants have a botanical, “official” name, and sometimes a common, “unofficial” name. Most people would like to (and do) use common names to describe plants. However, for various reasons plants are often better described by their botanical name. For example, some plants have no common name, or more than one common name, or a name that does not distinguish it from others. This would lead to confusion and mistakes - which botanical names are intended to overcome.

 

            Botanical plant names are based on Latin. The largest division is the family - which groups plants that are (apparently) related by the structure of things like flowers, fruits, etc. The family name, (eg Fagaceae) is usually stuck off in the corner somewhere - and can be more or less ignored, as you will see.
            A smaller division of plants is the genus - a more closely related grouping. And within each genus, are individual species - which in many cases precisely describes a plant. For example, in the genus Quercus, there are various species, one being Quercus palustris, commonly called Pin Oak. The botanical genus/species name is normally given in italics.  
            If that’s all there was to it, ok. But it gets more complicated. There are many kinds of plants with different types within each species; and to properly identify these, we need to tack on another (third) name. This is the subspecies, variety, form, or cultivar.
            Now, I wouldn’t worry about figuring out the subtle differences between these things - just note that a cultivar is one that some-one has produced artificially, and the others are ones that have arisen naturally (in the wild).
            The third name is normally given in italics, unless it’s a cultivar - for example ‘Brachyglottis greyi ‘Otari Cloud’ is a cultivar.

 

            You might have noticed though (on TV programmes and the like), that people often can’t be bothered using the full names. For example, they see a tree, and say ‘The Robinia looks nice there’. Whereas, it really should be ‘Robinia pseudoacacia ‘Frisia’. The general (unofficial) idea seems to be - use as little name as is needed to identify what you want to. So, on a plant label, ‘Brachyglottis ‘Otari Cloud’’ is really enough to avoid confusion.
            Where it does get messy though, is the practice of mixing botanical and common names (with gay abandon). Behind the Robinia  is a very big tree - ‘Oh, what a lovely Oak’, they say -not ‘What a lovely Quercus’. Probably because the Oak sounds better, somehow.

 

            Pronunciation of botanical names, is an area fraught with difficulty. Mainly because the Latin pronunciations are often not what the average person would expect. Many of the names look pretty fearsome, and the official pronunciation is even more so! Ah well, it doesn’t matter - just say whatever feels right - the listener should be quite capable of interpreting it correctly.

           

 

Gardening with Light Soils

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

 

            In the region through Taupo, Rotorua and the Bay of Plenty, the soil is generally ‘volcanic’ - that is, it came from volcanic eruption(s). And, believe it or not, these volcanic eruptions that deposited ash over the land, were relatively recent - over thousands of years, rather than millions of years. So, our soils are (in geological terms), relatively ‘young’, and ‘light’.   
            Young means the soil hasn’t had time to break down much, and therefore consists of fairly large, coarse material which doesn’t provide many nutrients. And light means that it is relatively open-structured - basically, containing bigger particles and more space  than heavier soils.  
            To us keen gardeners, this is good really, because a light soil is usually very beneficial to plants, and any shortage of nutrients may not be important or can be overcome. Put it this way - light soils with low nutrients are much better than heavy soils with high nutrients!

           

            Water falling on the soil either runs away somewhere, or soaks down lower under gravity -some of it being held by the attraction of soil particles. Generally, the smaller the particle, the  stronger the attraction; therefore light soils, which have bigger particles on average, hold on to less  water. And it gets worse - with less water in the soil, less nutrients are available for plants, because they can only get nutrients that are dissolved in the water. OK?
            I should also mention the influence of organic matter in all this. Plant matter is deposited on the soil and over time breaks down into smaller particles, that move down into the top layer - creating top-soil. This organic material is a source of nutrients and a holder of moisture. So, the more top-soil the better. If it’s shallow - say 10-20cm, moisture retention won’t be much; if it’s deep (say 30cm or more), you’re in luck.

 

            In our typical light soil, plants can usually get their roots down a long way, and this is a reliable source of moisture and nutrients. Deep rooting plants (generally trees and shrubs) do well -except for the first year or two after planting, when the reverse applies  So, particular care is needed with planting (time-of-year, weed control etc.) and irrigation may be needed to get them through dry periods.
            On the other hand, shallow rooting plants (generally small garden plants), are not as easy to keep in good shape. Initial establishment is harder, and apparently healthy plants can subsequently turn up their toes during a drought. It would be worthwhile making some moves to reduce this risk, by mulching the soil surface, and incorporating organic matter such as compost into the soil. Compost not only holds more moisture, but also supplies more nutrients.
            Extra nutrients can also be supplied in the form of artificial fertilizers - preferably slow-release forms, that work for long periods (up to about a year). Fast-release fertilizers, will be more likely to damage the plant by an excessive build-up, and are likely to be lost or leached from the root zone before being used by the plant.

 

            Knowing that dry-ness is more often the problem - one can tailor the plantings to suit the site.  For example, it is likely to be drier on a sloping site, than on a flat site. And the higher up the hill, the drier it will probably be. So, it would be daft to try and establish moisture-loving plants near the top of a hill.
On the other hand, valley bottoms are usually moist (or downright damp), so suit plants that are intolerant of drought.

 

            Lastly, keep an eye out for non-typical modifications to soil structure, which cause heavier soil.  Such as, in low-lying places, alluvial soil that has been deposited by rivers, or compaction by stock or machinery. The latter can be a problem around houses if the modern practice is followed, of bull-dozing the whole site, (and thereby ruining the natural soil structure).
            If you live right by the coast, the above problems of dry soil, are often accentuated by sandy soils - that, coupled with fierce salt-laden winds, requires a careful selection of plants, and a lot of work to boost moisture levels. Ah well, gardening wouldn’t be much fun if it all worked right first time, would it?

           

 

Natives with Flowers

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

 

            I think, generally, New Zealand native plants are noted for their form and foliage, rather than their flowering. At least, one could perhaps be forgiven for thinking that, after a walk through a typical piece of New Zealand “bush”.
            However, there are attractive flowers in the native landscape; and increasingly they are appearing in N.Z. gardens. To appreciate what I mean, good reference books would be “Native N.Z. Flowering Plants” by J.T. Salmon, and “The Gardener’s Encyclopaedia of New Zealand Native Plants” by Cave & Paddison. Let me pick out a selection of some of the best – most of which can be grown (at least by reasonably enthusiastic gardeners, with good management and good luck!).

Very small, up to about 50cm-

            At the small end of the scale, are the low ground covers and little alpine plants, that mainly grow in relatively open mountain country or on the coast. One very handy ground-covering herb, is Panakenake or Pratia angulata -  which produces white flowers (and red berries) off and on right through summer. It needs a constantly moist place to do well (in sun or moderate shade). It can spread very quickly, so is really only suited to places where a complete cover is ok. There is another one Pratia macrodon (but I’ve found it difficult to grow well). Isotoma fluviatile is a similar spreading groundcover – with tiny star-shaped blue flowers.
            Other good flowering ground covers - Horokaka (Disphyma australe) - a succulent from the coast, that thrives in hot, sunny situations; producing pink and yellow flowers (not frost hardy) – Fuscia procumbens (delightful little orange flowers –not frost hardy).
Mountain Daisies are worth a mention – tufted herbs, that grow to 30-40cm and send up stalks with white and yellow daisies. Some are not easy to grow “in captivity” in the garden; but some which I have found not too hard, are - the Cotton Daisy (Celmisia spectabilis), from North Island mountains; Celmisia mackaui, from Banks Peninsula; and Celmisia incana. Others worth trying include Celmisia dallii and C. coriacea.
            And it is hard to beat some flowering Hebes – such as H. treadwellii or recurva or ‘Gina Maree’, low, prostrate shrubs, with white flowers. Or a Parahebe, such as ‘Delight’, that grows in a low trailing form, and (providing it has a supply of moisture) produces a multitude of little purple flowers over a long period of summer and autumn.
            Finally, there are some very low flowering manukas – such as Leptospermum ‘Huia’ and   Leptospermum ‘Pink Cascade’, that produce masses of pink to red flowers.

Slightly bigger (in the 50cm to 1m range)-

            Lots of Hebes. Some flower well, some don’t - it is hard to single any out. Good flowerers, include  Hebe ‘Autumn Glory’, diosmifolia, ‘Inspiration’, ‘Oratia Beauty’, forms of Hebe speciosa, ‘Misty Prince’,  and most of the many ‘Wiri’ cultivars (such as “Wiri Charm’, ‘Wiri Splash’, ‘Wiri Cloud’ and ‘Wiri Vision’).   Personally, I think the deep violet blue of Hebe ‘Autumn Glory’ vies with the magenta red flowers of Hebe speciosa as the most impressive – however, unfortunately both of these tend to be susceptible to fungal disease in all but a very dry climate. A compact variety called ‘Dobbies Delight’ is quite good; also a cultivar ‘Wiri Vision’.

            One Hebe I must single out, is ‘Misty Prince’. This, hybrid of H. hulkeana and H.diosmifolia, has quite showy lilac flowers.

            If you visit Mt. Taranaki during summer/autumn, keep an eye out for Mountain Foxglove (Ourisia macrophylla). It is common on damp shady banks and streamsides. Stalks grow from the base of the plant, and produce several whorls of white-petalled, yellow-centered flowers. Both this and Ourisia macrocarpa (from the South Island) are quite tricky to grow, requiring shade and plenty of moisture through summer.
            A similar relation is Ourisia lactea – not quite as impressive flower stalks – but easier to grow. There are two varieties – var. lactea (South Island) and var. drucei (North Island).
            Brachyglottis varieties make fine garden shrubs - for distinctive soft, silvery foliage, and a profusion of yellow daisy flowers. B. ‘Otari Cloud’ would be one of the best - also, B. laxifolia, compacta, monroi.
            The flowering manukas pop up again  (loads of them). Leptospermum ‘Wiri Kerry’ is a nicely compact one, with attractive red flowers.

            A round-up of fine flowerers would not be complete without four of the very best. Firstly, Chatham Island Forget-me-not (Myosotidium hortensia) - a perennial noted for large, handsome leaves and beautiful white and blue flowers (this needs a cool, moist site, humus-rich soil, moderate shade in summer). I grow them under a silver birch tree – sun in winter, and shade in summer, they love it. New Zealand’s finest plant – without a doubt. 
            Secondly, Poor Knights Lily (Xeronema callistemon) - one of the few natives with really red flowers. Looks a bit like an Iris, with red “bottle-brush” flowers. Needs a hot, sunny spot, very good drainage, and no frost.
            Thirdly, Mt. Cook Lily (Ranunculus lyallii). Unfortunately, it’s lovely big white flowers (buttercup, not lily) are not easy to see, because it is difficult to grow outside the Southern Alps. But it may be possible - if you would like to try, I suggest referring to a book on growing alpine plants.
            Fourthly, Marlborough Rock Daisy (Pachystegia insignis). It is worth growing for it’s stylish foliage, and the flowers are a bonus – large yellow centred daisies. Needs very good drainage, and an open, sunny place (ideal is hard against the house on the north (sunny) side).
           

In the 1 to 2m range also, there are some nice flowerers-

            Many types of Olearia flower well - the Streamside Tree Daisy (O. cheesemanii) for example, which is almost smothered in tiny white daisies. Then there is the popular Kaka Beak (Clianthus puniceus) - a shrub with “rambling” form (needing regular pruning to keep compact); fern-like foliage and bright red flowers. Not frost-tolerant though.
            Rounding out a trio, is Sophora ‘Dragons Gold’, a thick ‘divaricating’ form of Kowhai. Yellow flowers in late winter, and from an early age.

            There are flowering manukas too in this size range – such as Leptospermum ‘Wiri Sandra’ (pink flowers); Leptospermum ‘Burgundy Queen’ (double flowers in red).

Over 2m- small trees-

Kumerahou (Pomaderris kumeraho) is rather nice. In spring, thick clusters of yellow flowers appear (won’t tolerate frost). Another good one, is Kowhai (Sophora tetraptera (higher) or microphylla (lower), whose yellow flowers are very eye-catching.

            Clematis paniculata is definitely worth mentioning. A climber – requires a cool, shaded rootrun – will climb up anything to the sun – puts on a great display of white flowers before xmas.

Big Trees-

            No description of native flowers would be complete without Metrosideros. Good old Pohutukawa (M. excelsa) is the one best known - very happy on the coast, but not much inland, because of low tolerance to frost when young. It’s bright red flowers put on a fine show in the new year. Inland, we have Rata (M.robusta in North Island), which also needs protection from frost when small; and (M. umbellata in South Island), rather more frost hardy. Flowering generally is erratic - every few years they decide to put on a show.
            There are a number of other types, some of which don’t grow into trees (such as the climbing ratas M. fulgens and M. carminea - both not frost tolerant).  Other types have yellow or white flowers

Well, that’s it-

            No doubt I have missed some good ones - next time you are out enjoying the great outdoors, keep your eyes peeled - you might spot some.

 

Summer’s on the Way

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

 

Very generally,  most problems with plants are caused either by too wet or too dry. In summer, it is usually the latter, although not always. I thought some ideas on how to keep your plants alive over a hot, dry summer would be useful.

The first point I want to make is - plants often die in summer, but the problem may actually originate in winter, when wet conditions cause root or crown rotting; so, come summer, the plant hasn’t enough root to survive drought. The fix is to improve drainage, or get a more damp-tolerant (rather than drought-tolerant) plant.

Soil type has a big influence. In this region (Rotorua/Bay of Plenty), soils are, generally, relatively light and open, so moisture holding is low. Small plants (with shallow roots) and newly planted plants (that haven’t had time to get roots down deep), often suffer drought stress. On the other hand, the light soils allow deep rooting plants (eg shrubs and trees) to get their roots way down, where moisture is always available, so long term there isn’t a problem.
            If soils are heavier (eg clays), or if there is a high water table, more moisture is generally available, but plants usually can’t get roots to great depths, so drought becomes a long term problem.
            In both cases, the best material to help overcome drought, is Organic. Raising the level of organic matter in the soil, raises moisture retention, as well as air holding space, necessary to keeping roots healthy.

What can you do, to keep your plants looking good, or at least alive?
If you can put automatic irrigation on them, or water them regularly, there should be no problem from drought stress.

Failing that, it is a very good idea to plant well before the summer - that gives the roots time to grow down to moister depths before it gets too dry. I would stress this – it really makes a huge difference to the rate of survival next summer. Autumn, or early winter ideally - except, in heavy frost areas, if plants are not fully frost hardy it is best to wait till spring (this is important, some types can be killed by heavy frosts while young) . In any event, they should be in the ground by the end of September  (or October perhaps, if you are able to give them some watering over summer).

The main reason plants suffer over summer, is Weeds. Weeds near the plant are voracious users of soil moisture. Big, vigorous weeds like blackberry, gorse, bracken are worst, but even ordinary grass is bad news around young plants. Get rid of weeds near the plant and it is much more likely to survive.

Weeds should be removed either by spraying or by mulching; not by cultivation (that just opens up the soil to greater moisture loss and causes new germination of weeds). If spraying is the answer; select a spray that has no activity in the soil, and spray weeds in an area about .75m diameter for each plant, before planting. Later, plant the plant (you don’t have to wait until the sprayed weeds are visibly yellowing). Later in summer, when another lot of weeds have started to grow, spray around the plant again (making sure not to get any weed-killer on the plant).

Mulching is best though. It reduces soil moisture loss, keeps the soil cooler, and suppresses weeds - all in one package! Bark is probably the best mulch - it is light, and not very expensive. I have found that a 10cm layer of bark does the trick - a few weeds would probably come through, but not many. Sawdust is worthwhile too; but apply extra nitrogenous fertilizer, as soil nitrogen is lost while the sawdust decomposes.

Small stones (pebbles) make a very good mulch; and look lovely; BUT, they are so heavy and expensive.

Plastic weed-matting is ok; but it does cause some rainfall to be run off, and allows the soil to heat up more than bark does. Weed-matting also looks awful, but is the only way I can think of to mulch a steep bank.

Grass clippings from the lawn are better than nothing; however, it tends to form a gluggy mess after a while, that reduces soil aeration. Also, it should be kept away from plant stems, otherwise rotting can result.

Hay is usually readily available in the country - it protects the soil alright, but (another but) the crop of weeds it produces you won’t believe, due to the large number of seeds in it. Not good, I’m afraid. 

Good Luck.

Native Ground-covers

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

“Groundcovers” means different things to different people. To me, it means plants that predominantly spread sideways, and are no more than about 30cm high - i.e. I don’t include higher plants that could be made to cover ground by squashing them together (such as grasses and shrubs). Further, I see two broad categories - ones that spread through or under the ground, and ones that don’t. The types mentioned below, are some of those that can be cultivated (out of their natural habitat).

Spreading and Rooting – its confusing, so I’ve given a summary list below

Before planting any of these, I suggest you consider if the situation is suitable - because they have, to varying degrees, the potential to become a nuisance. For example, I don’t imagine spreading groundcovers would be suited to a garden containing annuals or perennials that are to be dug up, replanted and generally re-arranged every year - and, if the garden is not bordered by a solid edging, the more vigorous ones may escape to neighbouring areas.

Having said that, groundcovers can do a lot for a garden - in livening those ‘bleak’ expanses of bark or stones. Personally, I rather like a ‘rampant’ mixture of different groundcovers, growing together in gay abandon.

Acaena inermis purpurea, is one - actually a Bidibidi, but without those spiny seeds that stick to all and sundry - it is noted for it’s distinctive purple colour. It needs light well-drained soil; and full sun to bring out the best colour, and to reduce it’s susceptibility to fungal disease. Unfortunately, it is susceptible to a die-off due to fungal disease in autumn, but should come away again nicely in spring, and look good over summer.
A plant that I think goes well in combination with Acaena, is Muehlenbeckia axillaris -  with a dense mass of slender, black stems and tiny leaves.

Leptinella is an interesting group (used to be called Cotula). Looking like miniature ferns, happily spreading through any light, moist soil, (or bark, stones) - particularly handy for covering areas under trees, that won’t support shrubs or grass. For example, L.squalida (bigger leaf); L.pusilla (small, dense, slow – purplish leaves - tough enough to walk on – it’s good for stabilising paths and steps There are other ones, but those two I like the best.

Another useful group is Pratia, which flowers in various white and cream tones. Sun or shade, but must be moist. P. angulata (probably the best known), given suitably moist conditions, spreads quickly. In rich, moist soil, it can be a bit much, growing up small plants. I wouldn’t plant it amongst grasses, or shrubs lower than about 50cm high. In some places though, it’s keen-ness is just what the doctor ordered - making a great display underneath shrubs in a bordered bed.
Another kind, Pratia macrodon, from the mountains, is nowhere near as vigorous as angulata, but I have found it difficult to grow satisfactorily.
 

Very similar to Pratia, is Isotoma fluviatile. This little beauty, is notable for it’s blue flowers - quite a strong blue too, not common in native plants, and the blue doesn’t fade much like most do. Well behaved (not very vigorous) - nice. Needs a moist spot in sun or light shade. Another candidate for colonising areas under trees that grass doesn’t like. A combination I like – Isotoma with Leptinalla pusilla.

For versatility, I reckon, it’s hard to beat, Nertera depressa – because it does ok in both sun and shade, and furthermore, isn’t bothered much by frost. Makes a mat of little heart-shaped leaves, plus tiny flowers, followed by red berries.

 

Fuschia procumbens, makes a good groundcover – in light or frost free places – it’s quite happy under shrubs too. Noted for the miniature fuschia flowers.

A group that rates more than a passing mention is Raoulia. These are called “mat plants”, because they stay so low and thick - they actually consist of a lot of tiny rosettes, and produce microscopic flowers. Must have full sun, good drainage, and small stones (or bark) to grow over, with moist soil below. I have tried quite a few here near Rotorua; some are doing ok, some not (due fungal disease). Their rate of spread is modest, and they stay low – so aren’t very invasive.
R. australis has very small, tight, hard, grey rosettes, and a mass of miniscule yellow flowers - hence the name “Golden Scabweed” - spreads very slowly. R. haastii is tight and hard, bright green to tan brown colour, spreads slowly. R. parkii, is bright green, pleasingly tight, spreads fairly quickly (my favourite). R. hookeri has bigger rosettes, silver colour - yellow flowers - spreads moderately quickly (but susceptible to fungal disease). Another distinctly silver one, is R. apice-nigra, which doesn’t appear to suffer from disease (in my garden).

Like some everlasting daisies? These produce many small daisy flowers, for a long period through spring to autumn. The happier they are (growing conditions) the longer the flowering. Anaphalioides alpina - grows in a dense, spreading mound, and tolerating drier conditions than - Helichrysum bellidioides – higher, not as dense, very bright green (providing it’s got moist conditions). Lagenophora pumila – quite large, green rosettes, spreading in a compact mat – tiny daisies on black stalks – very handy as it tolerates fairly dry, sunny conditions, and doesn’t seem to be much bothered by frost.
Here’s an idea – two types of groundcover in combination – one that prefers moist/shade (eg Pratia, Isotoma, Leptinella, Fuschia) – together with one that likes dry/sun (eg Raoulia, Lagenophora). So, one colonises under the shrubs, the other the open places. Cool.

Last, but definitely not least, is Scleranthus, which seems to have captured the imagination of many gardeners. Some call it a “moss”, which I don’t think correctly describes it. I would call this a “cushion plant” as it forms a distinct mound, bright green and bristly (like my chin). Their are three species in common cultivation - S. uniflorus, which has tight foliage, yellowish-green colour;  S. biflorus, which is less tight, and brighter green; and S. brockiei, identical appearance to biflorus. They need full sun - they will grow in light shade, but with a much more open form.

They can suffer from die-back – which may be due to too-dry soil (like most things they need a free-draining yet moisture-retentive soil); or fungal disease (brockiei is less susceptible than the others).

 

It’s confusing – so here’s a list summarising what they like –
Ok in sunny conditions, tolerate dry -
Acaena inermis purpurea    frost hardy
Anaphaliodes alpina             frost hardy
Lagenophora pumila            frost hardy
Muehlenbeckia axillaris        frost hardy
Nertera depressa                  frost hardy

Raoulia species                    frost hardy
Scleranthus species             frost hardy
Ok in moist and/or shade –
Fuschia procumbens            damaged by frost
Helichrysum bellidioides      frost hardy
Isotoma fluviatile                    damaged by frost
Leptinella squalida, pumila  frost hardy
Nertera depressa                  frost hardy

Pratia angulata                      damaged by frost

Spreading but not rooting -

 Actually, sometimes these plants do take root - where they come down and touch the ground - but they don’t spread underground, so are easy to keep under control by pruning back.
By the same token, they won’t spread as widely as the first (rooting) group, so each plant won’t cover as much ground. These are all frost hardy (you’ll be pleased to hear).

There are a number of low spreading Coprosmas, such as C. kirkii, C.” Hawera”, C.”Taiko”, which  tolerate dry, windswept situations - good for banks, coastal places, traffic Islands. kirkii is particularly vigorous. C. kirkii variegata has two-toned leaves.

Hebes! - plenty of these are low and spreading. They all need sunny sites, and handle dry, windy and coastal situations. Normally grow up to about 50cm wide. It’s hard to know which to pick out - some that I know about, are- H. decumbens: dark, blackish stems; thick leaves with red margins (very handsome) - H. hartii: notable for massed violet flowers - H. odora prostrata: distinctive for lying very flat and it’s mass of tiny leaves – H. epacridea, unusual, sort of square-shaped leaves – H. recurva, bluish foliage, white flowers – H. pinguifolia, tiny fleshy leaves with red edges – H. treadwellii, oval-shaped, thick, fleshy leaves; light greyish-green.

Did you know there is a NZ Daphne? Pimelea prostrata - a thick, spreading shrub, with small blue-green leaves in dense ranks. Tiny white flowers through summer. Tolerates dry, exposed conditions. And it’s vigorous - good for beautifying difficult banks, or hanging over walls and rocks. There are different varieties – a good one is P. ‘Anatoki Blue’’.  Pimelea  urvilleana is distinctly different – smaller, fleshy leaves with red margins, bigger flowers, and a nice, ground-hugging form.

A Tip -

A big potential problem with groundcovers is, weeds - growing in the plants. Almost impossible to remove - can’t spray them without killing groundcover, and rooting them out just seems to encourage a lot more. I suggest planting groundcovers in a mulch - bark would be the best, or stones. That stops most weed germination. Weedmat has limited use, as the rooting groundcovers won’t be able to spread - one way of overcoming that, is to cut holes in it of increasing size to allow groundcovers to spread.

Planting on the Coast

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

 

            Living on the coast is generally regarded as a big plus - no doubt about that. But it is not all hunky dory. Landscaping is tougher than most other places (except possibly high up on the side of Mt. Ruapehu), as plants have to put up with two things - a lot of wind, laden with salt spray, and often very dry soil (ie sand). Let’s face it, plant growth isn’t going to be as good as in a sheltered, fertile spot up north somewhere. However, with careful design and plant selection, things can be made to look good.

            Of course, it is possible to partly overcome these problems, by artificially modifying conditions - installing irrigation, and bringing in richer soil or adding organic matter.

            The first requirement is for plants to be able to withstand salt laden winds - generally those that have developed naturally either on the coast or up in mounains where cold winds and freezing temperatures are similarly challenging. Thick leathery leaves and/or leaves covered with hairs or a high gloss usually fit the bill. The second requirement (in places that are sandy), is for high tolerance of drought. Not unexpectedly, those same hairy or glossy leaves are adapted to mimimize moisture loss.

            The plants I mention below are all New Zealand natives, except two that are useful for shelter.
            One important thing, which should be established first, is planting for shelter. Leyland Cypress (non-native) is a possibility for thick, high shelter; although it probably grows far too high for most residential situations.  There’s gold variety Robinsons Gold, which doesn’t get quite so tall – also Cupressus arizonica (silvery-grey). Not as high (up to about 10m)  would be Coastal Banksia  (non-native) (Banksia integrifolia), and Rewarewa (Knightia excelsa). For lower hedges (say 5m), Karo (Pittosporum crassifolium),Olearia traversi, Olearia paniculata, Olearia solandri, Pittosporum tenuifolium (Kohuhu), Dodonea viscosa  (Ake Ake.

If there is space for big trees, Pohutukawa (Metrosideros excelsa),  Karaka  (Corynocarpus laevigatus) and Puriri (Vitex lucens) are a natural and attractive part of the coastal landscape. Being fairly open, not providing much shelter, but useful for supplying shade.

            Other possibilities for low shelter and bulk in exposed positions are Broadleaf (Griselinia littoralis), Taupata (Coprosma repens), Ngaio (Myoporum laetum), Toetoe (Cortaderia toetoe), Poataniwha (Melicope simplex)  and Flax (either the bigger Phormium tenax or smaller P. cookianum). In areas that you want to keep wild, you could choose say tangled Muehlenbeckia species (M. astonii and complexa). Cabbage Tree (Cordyline australis), looks the part too, although not actually adding to the shelter.

            Behind, and in amongst, the bulky things, you should be able to get slightly less hardy things to grow - such as the silvery Astelia chathamica (which needs some protection from wind), Puka (Meryta sinclairii), Renga renga lily (Arthropodium cirratum),  ornamental cultivars of Coprosma repens (such as ‘Port Wine’ and ‘Pride’), Brachyglottis species (greyi, monroi, compacta, laxifolia) and cultivars, such as ‘Otari Cloud’.
            Other suitable attractive garden shrubs, would include Golden Cottonwood (Cassinia fulvida), Purple Ake ake (Dodonea viscosa purpurea), and Corokia species and cultivars.
            Any of the low alpine plants (described in another article) should tolerate coastal wind, which is not really any harsher than what they are used to in the mountains - but beware of intolerance to drought. Some that come to mind (which are drought tolerant), are Acaena inermis purpurea,  Lagenophora pumila, Muehlenbeckia axillaris, Pimelea prostrata (and other Pimeleas)and the beautiful Marlborough Rock Daisy (Pachystegia insignis).
            Oh, and those very low ground hugging mat plants – Raoulia species, or Scleranthus (biflorus, brockiei or uniflorus) should be ok in coastal conditions (not very dry though).

            Also, there are native grasses up to the task - including Carex testacea, flagellifera,  Chionochloa flavicans, Libertia peregrinans and ixioides, Poa astonii, Poa colensoi, Poa cita.

            If you have sandy areas that need stabilizing, good choices would be dune grasses such as Astrofestuca littoralis, Desmochoenus spiralis, Spinifex sericeus; low spreading Coprosma acerosa, Hawera, Taiko, kirkii; Muehlenbeckia  axillaris and species above; plus delightful flowering plants such as Shore Fuchsia (Fuschia procumbens)  and Horokaka (Disphyma australe).

            Finally, I have to mention Hebes. They virtually all are tough enough to survive on the coast. There are too many to name (there is another article on them) - I will just single out one beauty that is in it’s element , Hebe speciosa, which has large glossy leaves and bright red or blue flowers. There are different forms too, that grow from about 50cm high to up to 1.5m.

 

A Native Alpine Rock Garden

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

 

            I have always been keen on the mountains; but it is only in recent years that I have looked closely at the multitude of plants that exist there. The variety of plants is truly amazing, most of which are, I gather, unique to this country.
            The common factor is small size - naturally, because of the harsh climactic conditions they have to endure - which makes them particularly useful for garden plantings too.

            However, it is not just a matter of moving some alpine plants from their normal environment and expecting them to flourish - survive even. To increase your chances with alpine plants, you need to give them some of the things they like.
            The first thing to decide, is it going to be wet or dry? I imagine a dry garden is easier - or one possibility is to plan on having a part of it wetted by natural seepage (as in the mountains) or by an irrigation system. Plant types which have adapted to growing in seepages and bogs will not accept drier soil, and vice versa.

            It is most important that the soil has very good drainage; which can be achieved by siting it on a sloping bank, or by building it up above the surrounding level with terracing. Then it will need some grit mixed in the soil - alpine plants like that. And plenty of organic matter, such as peat or compost. Finally, some different size rocks should be dug in here and there, to give a natural look, and assist in keeping the soil cool in summer. Personally, I like a lot of rocks, with plants planted in the crevices and climbing over them.
           

            In the mountains, rainfall is generally heavier and more reliable than down where we live.
It is not easy to maintain enough moisture during hot summers - one thing that helps is a layer of small gravel over the soil surface. This also helps keeps weeds down. I don’t think a bark mulch is any good, for small alpine plants, as it seems to stay too wet and encourages rotting during hot, wet weather.
            Direct sun is needed by the plants for at least some (say half) of the day - and some plant types need partial shade during summer (may be provided by some big rocks or shrubs).

            Ok - you have your rockery, how about some plants. There are a great number of possibilities, but many types are hard to grow, so I suspect some advice would be useful. The following I have found to be feasible in the Rotorua climate, which is on the cool and dry side (compared to nearer the coast or further north).  It would probably be harder to grow some of them in warmer or wetter areas. These are all plants suited to a dry garden.

            First, no self-respecting alpine garden would be seen dead without mat plants. These hug the old stony riverbeds, spreading slowly and mingling in gay abandon. Raoulia apice-nigra,  australis,  glabra, parkii, haastii, tenuicaulis have all done ok here. Raoulia hookeri, is a nice silvery colour, but is susceptible to fungal attack in warm, damp places. 
            Cushion plants are similar, but harder - harder texture, and harder to grow unfortunately, because they are fascinating. In this group would be the “vegetable sheep” - so called because they apparently resemble sheep when viewed from a distance (something I haven’t been able to appreciate, but I will keep trying). These plants grow on rocky ground to form rounded cushions. One type that I have found possible to grow, is Raoulia loganii, a little cutey.
            Not vegetable sheep, but cushion plants that grow readily are -  Scleranthus biflorus or brockiei (bright green, bristly), and Scleranthus uniflorus (light green, tighter, smoother). These may sometimes be attacked by a fungus, which causes partial die-off – I suggest cutting out the dead part, and after several months it might regrow ok. I prefer S. brockiei as it’s less susceptible to disease.

            There are a number of spreading, rooting  plants which (I believe) are really too vigorous for a rockery – suited only to areas with bigger shrubs (over say 50cm) - including Acaena inermis purpurea, Pratia angulata, Muehlenbeckia axillaris. However, some less-vigorous spreading groundcovers that I think are suitable (at least for bigger areas) – include Anaphalioides alpina, Isotoma fluviatile, Lagenophora pumila, Nertera depressa, Pratia macrodon.

            How about some wild bluebells - species of Wahlenbergia - low, spreading plants too, but slow, tidy growers that look neat, wandering around among the rocks. Some have blue flowers, some white.
            To add to the exotic look, try strange looking Helichrysum coralloides and H. selago; and
Aciphylla dieffenbachii. The latter is a type of speargrass, but without the usual diabolically sharp leaves (it needs a light soil with really good drainage).

            One of the most numerous families of alpines is Celmisia - Mountain Daisies.  Many are difficult to grow - I suggest Celmisia spectabilis , Celmisia mackaui, C. incana, would be worth a try. These don’t spread (you’ll be pleased to hear).  
            Other types, that can be grown (with good management and good luck), include Celmisia coriacea, C. dallii.

            Hebes, are a must in a rockery - as they are reliably hardy and fast growing, they can form the ‘backbone’ of the planting. I don’t wish to cast aspersions on the great number of ornamental cultivars around, but I suggest some of the less common low-growing varieties  would look the part - such as Hebe decumbens, hartii(“Lavender Spray’), pinguifolia, recurva, epacridea, obtusata, odora var prostrata, elliptica prostrata, chathamica, raoulia, treadwellii - all low plants that shouldn’t get more than about 20cm high.
Pimelea, is a must too – a low, thick, spreading plant; very hardy, fast growing – ideal for covering difficult areas and unsightly banks. It comes in several forms – P. prostata ‘Anatoki Blue’, P. ‘Silver Ghost’, P. urvilleana.
If you have room, some bigger Hebes (up to about 75cm high) would be Hebe albicans, ‘Autumn Glory’, cockayneana, ‘Gina Maree’, diosmifolia (low and high varieties), ‘Inspiration’, macewenii, ‘Red Edge’.

 

            These are all ‘broad-leaved’ shrubs (conventional looking). For a different look (like tiny conifers), try some ‘whip-cord’ types, such as Hebe ‘Emerald Green’, ’Golden Esk’, poppelwellii.

            Other shrubs that can grow to about 1m high, are Brachyglottis laxifolia, B. monroi,  B. compacta and B. greyi; and a lovely hybrid ‘Otari Cloud’.

            Perhaps you have room for some grasses. If the rockery is fairly small, only small grasses will do. The following are selected for their colour contrast – Poa astonii and colensoi (blue/green) look good against reddish or dark coloured rocks; Carex testacea (orange) and Carex flagellifera (brown) go well with darker greys.

           

 Bigger grasses, say 50cm to 1m, could include - Carex buchananii, brown colour, bleached and curly tips, and distinctive, upright form; Carex dipsacea, fine, green, weeping; Poa cita, silvery, spiky; Chionochloa rubra, big, reddish looking.

I have left the best to last - Pachystegia insignis (Marlborough Rock Daisy). At home in a hot, dry, windy place - sun all day if possible. If I were you, I would plant several plants together, as it is frustratingly slow (but well worth the wait).

            If you are keen, the following reference books would be useful-
- N.Z. Native Rock Garden & Alpine Plants           by Lawrie Metcalf
- Native NZ Flowering Plants           by J.T. Salmon (this covers other plants as well as alpines)
- Alpine Plants of NZ             by J.T. Salmon (a smaller field guide)
            One thing that won’t be easy is getting the plants. A few are commonly available from garden centres, others from native plant nurseries - we have some.

            That’s about it. It’s a lot of fun - some plants may die, but hopefully not too many!

 

Frost in Winter

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

 

            As we all know, it’s cold in winter - and in inland areas and at higher altitudes, it is generally colder than near the coast or further north.

            I guess this means that gardening is harder, really. But still quite feasible, and satisfying - we just need to take the cold into account.
            Frost is the big bogey. Plants need a gradual change in temperatures, to “harden”, ie. adapt their tissues, to the affect of frost. So, a heavy frost, particularly early (late autumn) or late (spring) can wreak havoc, as it catches them in an unprepared, “soft” condition.

            There are various things we can do to reduce the damage. The first is, to select frost hardier types of plants to go into frosty places. There are various systems around for describing the relative “frost-hardiness” of plant types. These assign several categories of hardiness. In my catalogue I have adopted the following indicators –
Not frost hardy                    Probably severely damaged or killed by any frost – only likely to survive in no-frost locations, under trees, by houses, hedges, lakes etc.
Partly frost hardy               Should survive some light frosts – but how much is really hard to predict
Frost hardy                          Should survive heavy frosts – however, even the most frost hardy types of plants, might sometimes succumb (particularly when they are young), to repeated heavy  frosts, or if they are hit by out-of-season frosts.
Frost hardy when mature –  less when young                      
This applies to some native trees. In heavy frost areas, it is best to plant them in spring (say mid September), to try and avoid damage; and/or plant hardy “nurse” plants several years before the sensitive types.

I would emphasise – it’s not an exact science. Some years – frosts aren’t much trouble – and every know and then, they are!

I suggest, observe what grows ok locally, and glean whatever information is available from reference books. Another point is that plants raised in a nursery in a frosty area are generally likely to be of hardier types than those in other areas; (however, that would not always be so, as plants are often given artificial protection from frosts).

            Another thing you can do, is select the site to suit the plant. In other words, put your less hardy plants in places that don’t get such heavy frost - such as, on a slope or hill-top (frost is worse in low-lying places), close to a hedge or overhanging tree or building, or beside a lake (frost tender plants often can grow around a lake edge - for example, Pohutukawa, round the edges of Lake Rotoiti). I suggest going out early on a frosty morning and observing the visible signs of frost, to get some idea of how places can vary.

            The condition of plants is of significance too. When plants are obtained from a garden centre or nursery, how frost hardy are they? Even plant types that are normally hardy, If they came from somewhere out of the area, could be less than adequately hardened to frost. This is because, the temperatures they have been used to may be higher than what they are going to be asked to put up with. And, further, they might not have been hardened sufficiently in the nursery (generally achieved by a low nitrogen/low growth condition).

            Generally, if plants look lush and bright green, they won’t be very frost hardy, compared to those with a “hungry”, slightly yellowish/reddish look. This is actually a “sore point” with me - because people are normally attracted to the lusher looking plants. I would add, though, that plants can also be too low in nutrients, and become more vulnerable to frost.

            The time of year is significant too. If plants are fully frost hardy, there is advantage in planting early (autumn through winter), as they will be better able to withstand the following summer dryness. If plants are not fully frost hardy, it would be better to wait till spring - putting plants in early, then having them hammered by frosts during winter, doesn’t make a lot of sense.

            Young plants are more vulnerable to frost damge than older ones. So, often if you can get a plant through it’s first, formative years, it will then do ok. The simplest thing would be putting some kind of material over it during winter, or at least protecting the base of the trunk (by wrapping with newspaper say). Other methods of frost control include, overhead watering, burning of fuel (frost-pots), and artificial air movement (helicopters or wind machines); none of which are likely to be warranted for non-commercial gardeners.

            Are there any advantages to be gained from gardening in a frosty area? Well, not a lot, but we might as well know about them. One is, plants generally flower better in colder areas - in fact some plants (such as pip and stone fruit) need sufficient cold in winter to flower and fruit adequately. Another advantage is better colour of foliage - deciduous trees for example, put on a more colourful display in a colder place. And there are fewer problems with insect pests and fungal disease in colder climates (because the bugs don’t like cold any more than we do).
Finally, plant types can be grown that do not do well in warmer areas - two that come to mind are native beech trees, and native alpine plants.

 

Shelter

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

 

 

            When the it’s windy and wet, the sheep all seek shelter behind the nearest tree - or, if there isn’t one, any bit of gorse or overhanging bank. However, if there is not enough shelter to go round, they have to stay out in the weather, and suffer. Similarly, on a hot sunny day, they spend a lot of their time in whatever shade they can find (even a fence post is better than nothing).

 

             Shortage of shelter, no doubt has some detrimental effect on animal health and growth; and it is a good idea to think seriously about planting some shelter belts or shade trees. Some planning is needed - where to plant, what plants, when, fencing them off, possible problems with wild animals feasting on them, etc - oh, and how to pay for it all. Then it would be a good idea to order the plants, so that doesn’t become a problem later.

 

When to plant?

            Local knowledge and experience will have a big bearing on this - but generally, it is desirable to plant well before summer, so that roots have time to grow down to moister depths before it gets too dry. I can’t stress this enough – it makes a huge difference to survival rates next summer. Autumn or early winter ideally, except it would be better to wait till spring -

- In heavy frost areas, if plants are not fully frost hardy (shelter types generally are).

- or if there might be a major problem with damage by animals                                                 

 

            If the two above problems are more or less absent, the best time is March or April, as soon as the soil is moist. If they are planted later, September should be the latest, (or October perhaps, if they can be watered over summer). If regular irrigation can be supplied, they could be planted any time, even summer.

 

What to Plant?

            Evergreen or deciduous? Evergreens are needed for year-round shelter from wind and rain, and sun.  For summer shade, either evergreens or deciduous trees (which lose their leaves in winter) would be suitable. 

 

            There are many types of plants which could be used. To narrow the field down somewhat, there is a table in the Information section of the website, which provides a selection of useful alternatives - all with moderate to fast growth, narrow form, tolerance of trimmimg, and retention of bottom branches. Note - a tendency to open up at the bottom in later life is a common failing with some species that would otherwise be suitable, such as Pinus radiata, Eucalyptus, Acacia.

 

Note – Cypresses (incl Leyland Cypress/Cupressocyparis leylandii, Cupressus arizonica, lusitanica, macrocarpa etc.) can cause abortion if eaten by stock.

 

The maximum height indicated, is for close planting (will go higher if planted alone).Height will vary depending on conditions.  Comparative characteristics are given  - the more asterisks, the more suitable the species for that characteristic.

 

            You may notice, I have not included Poplar or Willow in the table of deciduous shelter. For reasons - their roots are wide spreading and take a lot of nutrients, and they grow to a huge size.   Alders are included – which have small root systems, improve the soil by adding nitrogen and, and don’t get anywhere near as big.

 

What Spacing?

            If you want a shelter belt to fill in quickly, a spacing of 1m is suggested; but 1.5m would be ok. . Any deaths or runts should be replanted quickly, after their first season, as it is very difficult to get new plants to grow with big ones close by. With the smaller trees used for Low Shelter (such as Pittosporums), a closer spacing of say 75cm to 1m would be preferable, as they don’t get as wide.

 

Planting

            Detail on how to go about planting is given in the Helpful Information section of the website.

 

Trimming?

            To achieve a thick hedge at the bottom, it is important to trim the sides back each year, for at least 3 years, after the second year - this encourages more branching lower down. Later on, it is usually impossible to get them to thicken up, as growth is concentrated mainly in the upper branches. The hedge should be wider at the bottom than the top (avoids the lower branches becoming weaker due to shading).

            Whether they need side trimming or topping later, is debatable. On horticultural blocks, trimmimg and topping would normally be desirable to stop them encroaching too far - on stocked farms, it may not be needed.

 

Trees for Shade     

            Trees for shade should probably be fairly wide and either evergreens or deciduous could be suitable. In evergreens -  Eucalyptus (eg fastigata or regnans) could be considered (although they eventually get huge and fairly open) -  or wider conifers, such as Himalayan cedar (Cedrus deodara), Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), Sitka Spruce (Picea sitchensis), Western Red Cedar (Thuja plicata) -  or wider native trees such as Totara (Podocarpus totara) and Red Beech (Nothofagus fusca).

            Decidous trees, which lose their leaves in winter, have the added bonus of colourful foliage in autumn. Possibilities include - Liquidamber (Liquidamber styraciflua), Pin Oak (Quercus palustris), Red Maple (Acer rubrum), Golden Elm (Ulmus ‘Van Houtte’, Swamp Cypress (Taxodium distichum), London Plane (Platanus acerifolia), Sycamore Maple (Acer pseudoplatanus), Golden Ash (Fraxinus excelsior aurea).

 

One Last Bit Of Advice

            If underground drains are installed, ensure that non-perforated pipe is used within at least 5m of any tree. If not, roots will sure enough get into the pipe and block it! I learned the hard way, having to dig up perforated pipe and replace it.

 

Native Grasses

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

 

            Gone are the days when grass was only something in the lawn (that you mow), or on the farm, (that cows eat). 
            As well as being intrinsic and interesting parts of the natural landscape, grasses are now regarded as plants of great ornamental value. And we are fortunate that our native grasses can more than hold their own in the botanical world (and in good looks).
            Look around - grasses are popular with councils and commercial landscapers, and are increasingly gaining acceptance in private gardens.

            One of grass’s assets is a handy range of sizes. Probably the biggest would be Toetoe (Cortaderia toetoe). It may be difficult to fit it’s mature height of 2m (and seed stalks of 3-4m) into the average garden, but out on the farm, a big bunch of them, with silvery tassles waving, looks great. A slightly smaller variety (at 1.5m) is Cortaderia fulvida.
            A bit smaller, but still impressive, is Hunangamoho (Chionochloa conspicua), which grows quite happily in sun or moderate shade, and puts up handsome seed panicles in summer.  But the best of the ‘big’ grasses is (I reckon), Red Tussock (Chionochloa rubra), which grows about 1m+ high. A mass of red tussocks, shimmering in the sun and rippling in the wind, takes a lot of beating for impact. Moreover, it tolerates dry or wet conditions, and generally stays looking good for years. Actually, it is not really red, but takes a slight reddish hue, when grown in full sun.

            Carex secta, also gets to about a metre, or more. It grows naturally in bogs, but does ok in ordinary moist soil – in light soils, a bit of shade helps. Every year, the old fronds lie down below, gradually building up a kind of trunk, and new, bright green fronds grow out the top.

            Other grasses that grow to about 1m high: Anemanthele lessoniana has an upright, open form, with fine seed heads a bit like spider webs (whence they get the common name Gossamer Grass) - Chionochloa flavicans has a rather thicker and droopy form, with prominent seed heads looking like a smaller Toetoe.

Dianella nigra – merits a paragraph on it’s own - looks a little flax-like, with bright purple berries – grows about 50cm high..

Poa cita – starts out in a sort of khaki green shade, then fades to a light brown – hence the common name Silver Tussock.

            Carex testacea would probably be the best known of all native grasses - an orange tinted  weeping grass that grows up to about 40cm high.  At home in hot, dry (or damp) conditions; and needing lots of sun to bring out the strongest orange. Another one that likes the sun is Carex buchananii – upright form, pinkish-brown colour, curled and bleached ends (how does that sound?).
            Rounding out a trio, is Carex dipsacea - with long, fine, green fronds - preferring moist to wet conditions, in sun or moderate shade.

            At the small end of the scale, are a number of delightful specimens, which are ideally suited to limited garden space  - in the 25-40cm range.
Firstly, the bluegrasses – not exactly blue, but varying hues of green and blue -  great in contrast with dark colours, such as bark, scoria, or darker plants. Their foliage is also different to the other grasses described above – being fine, and rolled (ie round) in appearance. They need sun (or very light shade); and free-draining, moist to dry soil types.
Festuca coxii, has a weeping form, and short seedheads. Festuca actae, has a stiffer, more upright form, and very tall, prominent seedheads. Festuca mathewsii, has longer leaves, in a more open form; and tall, stiff seedheads.
Two blue Poa grasses are little beauties (about 30cm high) - Poa astonii, low weeping form (similar to Festuca coxii) - Poa colensoi, more stiff, upright.  These two are favourites of mine.

            Lastly – two rather unusual grasses. Uncinia uncinata ‘Tepuna Red’, is a rich dark red colour (a red form of the green grass with hooked seeds, that grows strategically along tracks in the bush); requires light shade (nice colour offset for shade loving greens such as Chatham Island Forget-me-not and Rengarenga) – Agrostis muelleriana, is a small, bright green grass with fine fronds, that produces impressive seed stalks with silver and purple seed heads. 

 

            I have read other views along the lines that grasses are ‘easy-care’ or ‘low-maintenance’. Well, I think that is an over-simplification. Firstly, if a grass is in conditions it does not like, it will look awful - mostly dead fronds, or dry, withered foliage, of poor colour. I believe the secret is to put the grass in conditions (of moisture and sun or shade) that it suits, and it will reward you with a long, good-looking life. 

            As a grass ages, some of the fronds naturally die (look grotty) and are replaced by new ones (look lovely). The rate at which this happens depends on how happy it is. It is a natural process - if you don’t mind the dead foliage, just leave it - that’s how it is in nature. If you prefer, remove the old fronds, say late winter, or mid-summer before a spurt of new growth; by combing them out, or cutting them off.
            Eventually, with many grasses, a total renewal is warranted - like mowing the lawn. In late winter, cut it right down to up to about a quarter height above ground. This looks awful - but new spring growth soon produces a much more handsome specimen.

            The rest of the time - sit back and watch the grass grow.

 

Hebes

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

 

Where would we be without those ubiquitous Hebes?  There is no getting away from it - we are lucky to have them, as they turn a largely drab lot of native shrubbery into something interesting and colourful.
            Actually, there are so many different kinds that it seems rather odd to me, that they are all regarded officially as Hebes. There are 79 species native to N.Z. and about 20 more from other countries. And there must be several hundred other varieties, hybrids and cultivars out there - I doubt that anyone knows for sure. Every year, more seem to pop up - most being produced artificially by crossing different species, but others arising naturally in the wild.

 

            They are all shrubs - ie plants with woody branches that grow naturally from near the base. And, they are suited to sunny, exposed situations; including coastal sites. Frost resistance varies somewhat, depending on their natural, original home - but mostly they are tolerant of some frost, often severe.
            Fungal disease seems to be the main bane of Hebes - most commonly downy mildew, plus some less-significant leaf-spotting. In my garden (near Rotorua), after prolonged wet weather some Hebes are affected significantly by fungi – worse if they are sheltered and partially shaded by trees. Those growing in warmer, humid regions (nearer the coast and further North), will tend to suffer even more. Generally, it is recommended that Hebes are grown in open, sunny places, and those which are susceptible to fungal attack are best grown in drier or colder regions. 

 

            Generally – the bigger-leafed types, are more prone to frost damage, and more susceptible to fungal disease – ie weaker, actually. Which is a pity, as the big leaves are rather attractive, and usually go with bigger flowers too.

            The climate here (near Rotorua), is marginal for many. Due to fairly high rainfall, they get fungal leaf-spotting, then suffer frost damage in winter.

 

            One great thing about hebes, is their variety of sizes.

 

            I like the low, prostrate forms that hug the ground and spill over banks and rocks – including - Hebe ‘Lavender Spray’ (or hartii),  decumbens,  pinguifolia, treadwellii, recurva. Of these, Lavender Spray is particularly notable for it’s lovely lilac flowers (but not many leaves), and decumbens for it’s unusual black stems and fleshy red-tinged leaves.
            Then there are slightly higher forms (up to about 50cm high) - such as Hebe ‘Autumn Glory’,  ‘Gina Maree’, macewenii (or pimilioides), diosmifolia ‘Mauve’(low form) -all good flowerers - topiara (noted for it’s unusual grey colour and neat form), and ‘Red Edge’ (with fleshy leaves like a succulent).
            For different foliage form and colours, there are whipcord type Hebes - like tiny conifers -  such as H. ‘Emerald Green’, laingii,  poppelwellii.
            A bit bigger (up to about 1m), are Hebe albicans, diosmifolia, ‘Inspiration. Hebe ‘Wiri Vision’, Hebe speciosa ‘Dobbies Delight’ and ‘speciosa ‘blue’  have very attractive flowers, but are hard to keep looking good here.

 

            Those that grow to about 1m or more, are sometimes not easy to fit into the garden - but I must mention Hebe speciosa ‘red’. It’s large glossy leaves, tinged with red, are very handsome; and the flowers, red/purple, striking. A word of warning though – it needs a spot that doesn’t get hammered by heavy frost; and is susceptible to fungal disease. 

‘Dobbies Delight’ is a smaller (about 75cm) form of it.

 

            Another thing that occurs to me  - some of the upright, thick growing forms are natural for low hedges - such as Hebe topiara, albicans, odora (or buxifolia), diosmifolia ‘Mauve’, for low borders up about 50cm, and Hebe diosmifolia, up to about 1m.

All of these (except topiara), can be trimmed, into a formal shape – however, trimming should  be little and often (say 3 times a year), to avoid cutting too far into old wood. Topiara should not trimmed as it is so thick and dark that leaves usually grow only on the edge.

 

What’s my favourite Hebe? That’s tricky. On one hand – the best looking I think is ‘Misty Prince’ - a cross between hulkeana and diosmifolia. With the beautiful flowering of hulkeana and the thicker, compact form of diosmifolia. But, it is prone to fungal disease. After a wet summer, it looks awful.

So, taking that into account, I would plump for – a dead heat, between Hebe ‘Inspiration’ (an old cultivar – been around for ever – lovely purple flowers, thick and compact, and reasonably disease resistant. I haven’t yet found any modern cultivar to match it); and, Hebe ‘Red Edge’ (a newer cultivar, very thick foliage, about 50cm round, lovely greyish leaves with red edges in winter).

 

I will leave on a practical note – if you want to keep a Hebe to a smaller size, prune it back straight after flowering. If pruning is left till later, the new growth will probably be lost – so, next season, no flowering.

 

Bugs in the Garden

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

 

            The weather is generally good in spring - not too hot and not too cold. The bugs in your garden think so too, so they are eating, growing and reproducing flat out.
            There are far too many pests to even begin to describe comprehensively in these few lines, so I thought I would mention just a few - the ones that seem to be more prevalent, at least in my locality, near Rotorua.

 

            Firstly, the thing that causes lumps on the leaves of pittosporums - little white bugs that hide in among the young shoots, called psyllids (or chermids, jumping plant lice). Their sucking of the young growth’s sap causes not only unsightly lumps, but small stunted leaves and retarded growth, as well as copious quantities of black sooty mould. They affect young plants mainly - my 3-year-old pittos are favourite targets; whereas some 6-year-old ones seem largely ok. I don’t think they are likely to kill a plant, but their effect is bad enough to warrant at least a couple of spray applications in spring and repeats in autumn. I would pick a systemic insecticide preferably (which is absorbed by the plant and therefore continues to work after rain); and one which controls sucking insects (such as aphids, thrips etc.)
            The same things have a go at Metrosideros (like young Pohutukawa and it’s cultivars,  and Rata), and Eugenias.

 

            The second thing which bugs me, is caterpillars. Moths lay their eggs on young growing shoots and soon there is a bevy of young caterpillars chewing their way through the best part of the plant! They usually hide during the day in rolled up leaves - which is why they are called ‘leaf-roller’ caterpillars. Again, they won’t kill a plant, but the holes and general mess they leave certainly doesn’t look very nice; and the retardation of growth can be major. They will live on almost anything.
            We have a lovely Cordyline ‘Albertii’ in a tub; which seemed to be bug-free, but suddenly big holes started appearing in the fronds. The culprits were hiding down in the base. A suitable insecticide (for chewing insects like caterpillars) cleaned them up. Personally, I prefer to keep an eye on plants and only apply insecticide when a significant problem shows up - that reduces the amount of spraying needed.

 

            Third on my hate list, are thrips. Tiny things, that seem to be taking over, as each year there seem to be more of them. They live on the undersides of leaves, scraping away some of the leaf - causing a characteristic silvering, which is often visible through the top of the leaves too.
If your eyesight is very good, they are miniscule things up to about 1mm long,  with 6 legs and two feelers - while young, a whitish colour, adults a blackish colour.
            Some plants are very susceptible (the ones that taste best) - including Rhododendron, Azalea, Rose, Dahlia, Freesia, Citrus, Tomato etc. etc. I have never seen a plant die of thrips, but they often look very seedy. Indoor plants get hit too.
            If you don’t like them enough - I suggest looking out for the signs and applying a suitable insecticide. Check that thrips are specifically mentioned on the label, because some chemicals control aphids but not thrips.

 

            Last (but definitely not least), are fungis which cause Mildew; of which there are two types - Powdery and Downy.
            Powdery mildew tends to hit plants in dry, hot  weather, producing white powdery deposits on the upper surfaces of leaves. Young shoots are often infected, becoming stunted and curled, which can severely retard growth. This disease affects many annual and perennial flowering plants (including aster, begonia, calendula, cineraria, dahlia, delphinium, gerbera, poppy, pansy, penstemon, petunia, ranunculus, sweet pea, verbena, zinnia);  a few woody shrubs and trees (including erica, euonymus, hydrangea, oak, rose), some fruit crops (including grapes, pip-fruit, strawberry and tamarillo), and a few vegetables (including cucurbits and peas).
            It seems to be more prevalent when temperatures rise during mid-late summer - say December to March. Unfortunately, like most diseases, it can only be successfully controlled by a regular preventative application of suitable fungicide. Copper does not control it. Bravo is one that does.

            Downy mildew seems to be more prevalent in spring and autumn, when temperatures are lower - in Rotorua, roughly September-November and March-April; (but this could vary!). It only spreads during damp conditions. The fungus actually grows in the under-side of leaves; the initial symptom being purplish or brown spots, often (but not always) developing to furry white/grey down under the leaf and pale yellowish areas on top.
            It affects a few annual and perennial plants (including anemone, antirrhinum, stock, wallflower), some woody shrubs and trees (including felicia, hebe, rose); a few fruit crops (including grape), many vegetables (including brassicas, cucurbits, lettuce, onion, pea).
            Control is difficult. While the weather is fine, ok - then some combination of temperature and damp weather causes a sudden outbreak. Control can be achieved with copper-based sprays, or Bravo. But, frequent applications are necessary to maintain a protectant cover (you need eyes like a hawk, as a spray is needed when it is just starting).

           

The following strategies are suggested, to ameliorate problems with mildews -

·      Avoid plant types that are particularly susceptible.

·      Young plants are more susceptible, so apply control sprays to them.

·      Plants that are in good condition are not as susceptible - so try and maintain adequate moisture and nutrition (and cull out those runts!)

Try and reduce dampness on plants - plant susceptible types in open, windy sites (not under trees), and avoid over-head irrigation.

 

 

Gardening in the Country

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

 

One good thing about living in the country, is lots of space. So, one can grow bigger plants (trees and shrubs), and more of them. For example, deciduous trees that change with the seasons - fresh greens in spring, darkening through summer, becoming a colourful kaleidescope in autumn; and, by losing their leaves in winter, letting through welcome light and warmth. Three of the most colourful - combinations of purple and orange - would be Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum), Liquidamber (Liquidamber styraciflua) and Pin Oak (Quercus palustris). Others that turn distinctive colours are  – Claret Ash (Fraxinus ‘Raywood’), red wine - Red Maple (Acer rubrum), bright red – Ginkgo biloba, bright yellow – Golden Ash (Fraxinus excelsior aurea), bright yellow –Swamp Cypress (Taxodium distichum), tan/brown.

 

For sheer eye-catching colour from spring to autumn, it is hard to beat four beauties - Golden Elm (Ulmus ‘Lutescens’), which holds a strong lime-green and gold; Acer palmatum atropurpureum, purple to bright red; Gleditsia ‘Sunburst’, lime green with yellow; Prunus cerasifera nigra, rich, dark purple (after pink flowers).

 

Every now and then, you spot trees with masses of pink flowers, in late winter. Probably types of Prunus – cherries, apricots, plums, etc. The best flowerers come from those that that don’t produce fruit. Two of the finest – Prunus cerasifera nigra, pink flowers followed by dark purple leaves, and Prunus ‘Kanzan’, a flowering cherry that produces a huge profusion of pink flowers.

 

And let’s not forget conifers, which by form and foliage, manifest a certain majesty. Perhaps not the ubiquitous Pine Tree - but Himalayan Cedar (Cedrus deodara), of weeping habit; Sitka Spruce (Picea sitchensis), with bluish-tinged and upright growing foliage; and Californian Redwood (Sequoia sempervirens), the tallest of all trees.

 

How about some native trees, that make handsome specimens when grown outside the confines of the bush. Rimu (Dacrydium cupressinum), Totara (Podocarpus totara),Titoki (Alectryon excelsus), Kahikatea (Dacrycarpus dacrydioides), Kowhai (Sophora tetraptera), Red Beech (Nothofagus fusca), Rewarewa (Knightia excelsa), Tawa (Beilschmiedia tawa). To get started, they all need some shelter from persistent wind (and in some cases heavy frosts) for the first few years.  One way of doing this, is to plant hardier “nurse” plants, and after several years plant the longer term trees amongst them.

 

Another good thing about the country – we are surrounded by our natural native “wild garden”.
Native plants look right, somehow  - they blend in with the environment. Try flowering shrubs; such as Tree Daisies (Olearia cheesemanii & paniculata), which are smothered in white daisy flowers;   Groundsels (Brachyglottis), which have silvery-grey leaves and bright yellow daisy flowers; Manukas (Leptospermum), with flowers in shades of pink and reds; and  Hebes (too numerous to single out).

 

Native grasses come in all sorts of shapes, sizes and colours; like Carex testacea (green and orange), Carex buchananii(pink and brown), Carex dipsacea (bright green), Poa astonii & colensoi(blue-green), Chionochloa rubra and flavicans  (big, bold tussocks) - too name a few. And  finally, no display of native grasses would be complete without Libertia - peregrinans (whose sharp, orange spikes wander cheerfully around the garden – and ixioides (which stays in one place).

 

‘Architectural’ forms are in at the moment. NZ has them - the Cabbage Tree (Cordyline australis) in green or purple; Astelia chathamica, upright, spikey, silvery; and Pseudopanax crassifolius (Lancewood), with unusual up-side-down foliage; Scleranthus brockiei, bright green cushion; Raoulia parkii, a bright green carpet.

 

If you live in the country, make the most of it!

 

Difficulties of Planting in the Country

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

 

            While living in the country is great, some things are harder -  for example, getting plants established. As the planting environment in the country is likely to be more hostile than in town, it would be a good idea to take some extra precautions.

 

            Firstly, the number of plants is probably greater - with more space around the “section”, and with all those hectares of farmland to beautify. Pulling out weeds, and irrigating plants with a watering can very quickly loses it’s appeal, so a planned and systematic approach is needed. Control the weeds by spraying and/or mulching, and irrigate with an installed system (such as a leaky hose or dripper line).

 

            Secondly, the location of the plants is generally going to be away from your tender loving care.  Out-of-sight is the worst place for plants, as it very easy to forget about them if you don’t see them every day. Hence the need for robust and long-lasting methods of protection.

 

            Thirdly, there are a host of hungry critters seemingly sitting around waiting for your plants to arrive, so they can feast on them. An exaggeration I know, but sometimes it isn’t, and it pays to be wary.
            Rabbits are generally the most damaging. With the large reduction in rabbit numbers due to RCD,  this problem must be considerably reduced, but probably not solved. There could still be pockets of higher rabbit population and even a few survivors can do a lot of damage.
            Hares are destructive things too. A customer reckoned that one hare walked along a line of  Blackwoods and casually bit through the trunk of each one.
            Next on the hate list must be oppossums. Plenty of them around, and most of them like your plants too (either for swinging on or eating).
            Then there are big wild animals like goats and deer to contend with, with big appetites to match.
            I don’t imagine that birds generally do much damage, but hang on - what’s that b----y pukeko doing? Pulling out my trees, that’s what. Ducks too, have a penchant for yanking things out. If they are around, maybe some, er, attention would be warranted.
            In some areas there are particular problems, such as Wallabies, Peacocks, etc.

 

            Which gets me to the biggest threat of all - stock!  Imagine the pressure on your fences, when those hungry steers see, just out of reach, lovely tender tree seedlings (that weren’t there yesterday). Hmmmm, lets see, if I push the fence maybe I can just reach one - yep, very tasty too.
I can see it isn’t easy to protect plants from stock. Very secure fencing is essential and if trees are for long-term low shelter, they will have to be fenced off for all of their life, or stock will eat the bottom branches. Flimsy, electric fencing is often used, but it’s risky - it only takes a power cut for stock to get at (and demolish) a plant.
            In addition to fencing, methods of protection would include shooting or poisoning of wild animals, deploying the dogs nearby; and, for newly-planted plants, application of an animal-repellent chemical.

 

            And while we are in the “doom amd gloom” article, I might as well mention the possibility of damaging plants by injudicious application of chemicals. For example, some chemicals have damaging effects through the roots in soil - be careful to only apply around plants, chemicals that specifically state that there is no activity through the soil. Another trap is a chemical that may be ok round one type of plant, but not others - typically, chemicals for pine trees may not be safe around others (such as Eucalyptus or native trees).
            Damage may also be caused by inadvertently getting some chemical on a plant - pointers here, include spraying only in very light wind and using a coarse nozzle at low pressure (to reduce spray drift). If you think some chemical has got on the plant, one remedy is to whip that bit off with secataurs (or wash it off with water).

 

After all that, is it worth it? Absolutely - there are few things more satisfying than seeing those  shelter belts and copses of trees transforming the place from barren grassland to a place of beauty.

 

Shade

by Rex Beer, Greenridge Nursery

 

            Shady places, under trees (or other things), can be difficult – how to make them look nice. The first thing I want to do, is describe degrees of shade. I’ll go with 4 – light shade, moderate shade, heavy shade, very heavy shade – not precisely defined, but you get the general idea?

 

            Very heavy shade – for example, under thick conifers, virtually no light – virtually nothing will grow, so you don’t need to worry.

 

            Heavy shade – under trees that let a little light in, eg pine trees, native bush canopy. Generally only ferns do any good; and in places some kinds of native trees send spindly seedlings upward, seeking enough light to survive (and most probably don’t).

There are many native ferns – two that I like a lot, are –

Asplenium bulbiferum (Hen & Chicken fern), which sends up graceful, feathery fronds – needing a moist, fertile soil, very little sun, and no frost. The hen is the parent plant, and the chickens are tiny plantlets that form still attached to the fronds.

Blechnum novae-zelandiae (Kiokio), was called B. capense – has fronds like little ladders – it’s relatively versatile, growing in moderate shade through to full sun (provided the soil is moist), frost hardy. In sun, it takes a nice reddish look. Fairly thick spreading form, good for covering areas under trees, and shady banks.

Tree ferns – are an attractive part of our landscape – loosely called “ponga”.  Dicksonia fibrosa (Wkeki-ponga) grows to 2m or more, usually with a skirt of old fronds hanging around it. Dicksonia squarrosa (Wheki) grows much the same, without as much old fronds. Both Dicksonias will grow in moderate shade, or in sun providing it’s moist and sheltered from persistent wind. Cyathea dealbata (Silver fern), can reach heights approaching 10m – light to moderate shade and moist soil is needed. Cyathea medullaris (Mamaku) grows the tallest (up to 15m) – in shade or sun if it’s not very windy. They are all likely to be damaged by heavy frost.

Trees growing in heavy shade, generally have long, woody growth, and very few leaves. That’s how most native trees get started – in a battle for enough light to grow tall. One that I rather like – Laurelia novae zelandiae (Pukatea) – is attractive, forming a neat pyramid of shiny leaves on reddish stems. Eventually (many decades), it might grow into a big tree – in the meantime, it’s an attractive under-storey plant.

Most native shrubs (including Pittosporums), in moderate to heavy shade, have an open form with few leaves – not attractive (perhaps?) But there are some that might grow thicker, in places with a little light – Coprosma lucida, Griselinia littoralis, Pseudopanax laetus, Pseudowintera colorata – they’ll grow fine in full sun too. These all have big, shiny leaves – the last, Pseudowintera or Horopito, is sometimes called Pepperwood – try chewing on a leaf, to see why.

 

Moderate shade – is easier, I suppose – more plant types to choose from. However, don’t forget that unwanted things (weeds), will grow much better too. Firstly – things that won’t do any good – include flaxes, and Hebes. Hebes – only grow in the direction where they can see the sky – in long, woody form with few leaves.

The shrubs described above for heavy shade, will grow fine in moderate shade. Others worth a go - Myrsine australis,  Cordyline banksii (Forest Cabbage tree), Hoheria populnea, Pittosporum crassifolium & eugenioides (not tenuifolium), Pseudopanax arboreus.

Trees will generally grow ok – like Totara, Rimu, Kahikatea, Matai, Tawa, etc. Not necessarily with thick leafy form – for that, find a sizable hole in the overhead canopy.

Many groundcover plants, will grow in filtered light – including Leptinella, Nertera, Fuschia procumbens, Pratia, Isotoma fluviatile. Not – Raoulia, Lagenophora. See the other article on “Native groundcovers” for more info. As overhead trees won’t allow decent grass to grow, planting native groundcovers makes sense – how about a mixture of different types growing together in gay abandon.

Some native climbing plants like growing in light to moderate shade - eg Clematis paniculata¸ that heads up any available tree until reaching the top/sun, there putting on an impressive display of white flowers.

Grasses, and other similar low herbaceous plants, mostly don’t like shade much; but there are some exceptions – such as Arthropodium cirratum (Rengarenga lily), Chionochloa flavicans, Dianella nigra, Carex dipsacea, Gahnia species, Microlaena avenacea, Uncinia uncinata.

Astelias – tolerate some shade – but, they do need a fertile and moist soil to do well.

Last, but definitely not least – Myosotidium hortensia, Chatham Island Forget-me-Not, likes (must have) moderate shade, as well as rich, moist soil. A swathe of these – large shiny leaves, and bunches of blue flowers – is about the most attractive display under trees, I can imagine.

 

Light shade – is easy really – as the things that grow ok in full sun will handle light shade too. One point though – some plants prefer moist conditions – which you could provide by planting in full sun, in a high-organic soil (not up on a bank) – or, in lighter, drier soil, but light shade (to reduce their moisture needs).       

 

Shade – maybe a nuisance – maybe not, depending how you treat it.