HOW BIG DO THEY GET

HOW BIG DO THEY GET?

If you are interested in plants that grow to a particular size, look in the ranges below. All plant types we grow are grouped into ranges of HEIGHT when mature. These are approximate, as size will vary between individual plants (like humans) , and will also vary with different growing conditions. Also, remember that some plants take a long time to get to a mature size.
*VERY SMALL : UP TO 50cm*
Agapanthus ‘Peter Pan’ Carex flagellifera & testacea (grass) Celmisia species Convolvulus mauritanica Coprosma ‘Autumn Haze’, ‘Black Cloud’ Coprosma Hawera Fuschia procumbens Hebe ‘Mauve’ Hebe ‘Emerald Green’	Leptinella ‘Platt’s Black’ Leptospermum ‘Huia’ Leptospermum ‘Pink Cascade’ Libertia ixioides & peregrinans Lithodora ‘Grace Ward’ Lophomyrtus ‘Plum Duff’ Myosotidium hortensia - Forget-me-not	Pachystegia insignis – Rock Daisy Othiopogon – Black & Green Mondo Grasses Phormium ‘Thumbellina’, ‘Jack Spratt’ - flax Pimelia prostrata & urvilleana Poa astonii & colensoi (blue grasses) Pratia angulata Scleranthus brockiei (groundcover) Uncinia ‘Tepuna Red’ (grass)
*SMALL : 50cm - 1m*
Anemanthele lessoniana (grass) Asplenium bulbiferum (fern) Astelia nervosa Astelia ‘Red Devil’ Astelia ‘Tikitere’ Blechnum novae-zelandiae (fern) Buxus sempervirens – English Box Carex buchananii, dipsacea, secta (grasses) Chionochloa flavicans & rubra (grasses) Dianella nigra (grass)	Hebe albicans Hebe diosmifolia Hebe ‘Heebie Jeebie’ Hebe ‘Inspiration’ Hebe ‘Marie Antoinette’ Hebe ‘Red Edge’ Leptospermum ‘Wiri Kerry’	Lophomyrtus ‘Little Star’ Pachystegia insignis - Rock Daisy Phormium ‘Jester’ Phormium ‘Green Dwarf’ (flax0 Phormium ‘Evening Glow’’ (flax) Phormium ‘Yellow Wave’ (flax)
*SHRUBS : 1m - 2m*
Acer ‘Crimson Queen’ Astelia chathamica Brachyglottis ‘Otari Cloud’ Coprosma ‘Pride’ Cordyline ‘Green Goddess’	Coprosma robusta - Kakaramu Corokia ‘Sun Splash’, ‘Geentys Green’ Cortaderia toetoe - Toetoe Hebe stricta - Koromiko Leptospermum ‘Burgundy Queen’ Leptospermum ‘Wiri Sandra’ Lophomyrtus ‘Red Dragon’	Olearia cheesemanii - Tree Daisy Phormium cookianum- Mountain Flax Phormium Copper Glow’, ‘Dark delight’, ‘Rainbow Queen’ (flax) Sophora prostrata – Dwarf Kowhai
*LARGE SHRUBS : 2m - 4m*
Acer ‘Shindeshojo’ Clematis paniculata (climber) Cordyline ‘Alberti’ Cordyline ‘Cardinal’ Cordyline ‘Red Star’ Dodonaea viscosa - Ake Ake Hoheria populnea variegata Olearia paniculata	Phormium tenax - Swamp flax Pittosporum ‘Katie’ Pittosporum ‘Mountain Green’ Pittosporum ‘Tandarra Gold’	Pseudopanax crassifolius – Lancewood Pseudopanax ‘Cyril Watson’ Pseudopanax ‘Gold Splash’ Pseudopanax laetus – Fivefinger Pseudopanax lessonii purpure
*SMALL TREES : 4m - 8m*
Acer palmatum atropurpurea Albizia julibrissin - Silk Tree Alectryon excelsus - Titoki Aristotelia serrata - Wineberry Chamaecytisus palmensis – Lucerne	Cordyline australis - Cabbage Tree Fuschia excorticata - Kotukutuku Gleditsia ‘Ruby Lace’, ‘Sun Burst’ Griselinia littoralis Photinia ‘Red Robin’	Pittosporum crassifolium – Karo Pittosporum eugenioides – Lemonwood Pittosporum tenuifolium - Kohuhu Podocarpus totara aurea - Golden Totara Prunus campanulata superba – Taiwan Cherry Pseudopanax arboreus - Fivefinger Sophora tetraptera – Kowhai
*MODERATE TREES : 8m - 20m*
Acer rubrum – Red Maple Alnus cordata - Italian Alder Alnus rubra - Red Alder Banksia integrifolia - Coastal Banksia	Betula pendula - Silver Birch Casuarina cunninghamiana - Sheoke Cornus capitata - Strawberry Tree Fraxinus excelsior aurea – Golden Ash	Fraxinus ‘Raywood’ – Claret Ash Gleditsia ‘Sunburst’ Kunzea ericoides - Kanuka Quercus palustris - Pin Oak Ulmus ‘Lutescens’ - Golden Elm
*BIG TREES : 20m - 40m or more*
Acacia melanoxylon - Blackwood Acer pseudoplatanus –Sycamore Maple Agathis australis - Kauri Cedrus deodara - Himalayan Cedar Cryptomeria japonica - Japanese Cedar Cupressus lusitanica - Lusitanica Cupressocyparis - Leyland Cypress Dacrycarpus dacrydioides - Kahikatea	Dacrydium cupressinum - Rimu Eucalyptus fastigata - Brown Barrel Eucalyptus nitens - Shining Gum Ginkgo biloba Knightia excelsa - Rewarewa Liquidamber styraciflua - Sweet Gum	Nothofagus fusca - Red Beech Nothofagus menziesii – Silver Beech Picea sitchensis - Sitka Spruce Platanus acerifolia – London Plane Podocarpus totara - Totara Taxodium distichum - Swamp Cypress Thuja plicata – Western Red Cedar

SUGGESTIONS FOR DIFFERENT PURPOSES

*HIGH SHELTER*
Selected for wind tolerance, moderate to fast growth, narrow form, tolerance of trimming, and retention of bottom branches. Note - a tendency to open up at the bottom in later life is a common failing with some species that might otherwise be suitable, such as Pinus radiata, Eucalyptus, Acacia. The maximum height indicated, is for close planting (will go higher if planted alone).Height will vary depending on conditions. Approximate comparative characteristics are given in the table below - the more asterisks, the more suitable the species for that characteristic. More information is given in the Price-list. Evergreens - for year-round shelter
					----------Tolerate------------				Not
(Suggested spacing about 1.5m apart)	Max Ht. (m)	Max Growth Rate	Density	Ground Level Shelter	Salt Wind	Dry Soil	Wet Soil	Frost	Affect Crops/ Drains
Banksia integrifolia (Coastal Banksia)	10m	*** (75cm pa)	**	*	****	***	*	**	****
Casuarina cunninghamiana (River Sheoke)	20m	**** (1m pa)	**	**	**	**	**	**	***
Cryptomeria japonica (Japanese Cedar)	20m	*** (75cm pa)	****	****	*	**	**	***	***
Cupressocyparis leylandii ’Leighton Green’ (Leyland Cypress)	30m	**** (1m pa)	****	***	***	***	***	***	**
Cupressus arizonica (Arizona Cypress)	20m	*** (75cm pa)	***	***	***	***	**	***	**
Thuja plicata (Western Red Cedar)	20m	** (50cm pa)	****	****	*	**	***	***	**
Deciduous - lose their leaves in winter
Alnus cordata (Italian Alder)	15m	*** (75cm pa)	***	**	*	***	****	***	****
Alnus rubra (Red Alder)	15m	**** (1m pa)	**	*	*	**	****	****	***
LOW SHELTER & HEDGES - All Evergreens
					----------Tolerate------------				Not
(Suggested spacing (¯))	Max Ht. (m)	Max Growth Rate	Density	Ground Level Shelter	Salt Wind	Dry Soil	Wet Soil	Frost	Affect Crops/ Drains
Buxus sempervirens (English Box) (30cm)	1m	* (20cm pa)	*****	*****	**	**	**	****	*****
Corokia varieties (50cm)	2m	* (40cm pa)	****	****	****	***	**	****	****
Phormium tenax (Swamp Flax) (1m)	2m	** (50cm pa)	***	****	****	***	****	****	****
Pittosporum crassifolium (Karo) (1m)	7m	** (50cm pa)	**	**	****	****	**	**	***
Pittosporum eugenioides (Lemonwood) (1m)	7m	*** (75cm pa)	***	***	**	**	***	***	***
Pittosporum tenuifolium (Kohuhu) (1m)	7m	*** (75cm pa)	***	***	***	***	**	****	***
Griselinia littoralis (Broadleaf) (75cm)	3m	* (40cm pa)	***	**	***	***	**	****	***
Olearia paniculata (75cm)	4m	** (50cm pa)	***	***	****	****	**	***	***
Pittosporum ‘Katie’ (75cm)	2.5m	** (50cm pa)	***	***	**	***	**	***	***
Pittosporum ‘Mountain Green’ (75cm)	3.5m	** (50cm pa)	***	***	**	***	**	***	***
Pittosporum ‘Tandarra’ (75cm)	4.5m	** (50cm pa)	**	***	**	***	**	***	***
Photinia ‘Red Robin’ (50cm)	3m	** (50cm pa)	**	**	**	***	**	****	***
Other types suited to hedges: Hoheria populnea variegata 4m; Podocarpus totara aurea (Golden Totara), 4m, thick; Pseudowintera colorata 2m; Magnolia ‘Little Gem’ 4m

TIMBER : (major alternatives to Pinus radiata

Acacia melanoxylon - Tasmanian Blackwood
Cupressocyparis leylandii ‘Leighton Green’

Cupressus lusitanica - Lusitanica/Mexican Cypress
Eucalyptus fastigata - Brown Barrel

FIREWOOD (Coppicing)

STOCK FORAGE

(If cut just above ground will usually grow again)
Eucalyptusnitens & fastigata
Acacia melanoxylon - Tasmanian Blackwood

Chamaecystisus palmensis - Tree Lucerne/Tagasaste

NATIVE ‘PRIMARY’ PLANTS (Hardy types suited to initial native re-vegetation)

Aristotelia serrata - Wineberry
Coprosma robusta - Kakaramu
Cordyline australis - Cabbage tree
Cortaderia toetoe - Toetoe
Dodonaea viscosa - Ake ake
Griselinia littoralis - Papaumu

Hebe stricta - Koromiko
Kunzea ericoides - Kanuka
Phormium cookianum - Mtn. flax

Phormium tenax - Swamp flax
Pittosporum crassifolium - Karo
Pittosporum eugenioides - Tarata
Pittosporum tenuifolium - Kohuhu
Pseudopanax arboreus - Fivefinger

COASTAL AREAS (Tolerate salt-laden air)

Acer pseudoplatanus –Sycamore
Agapanthus ‘Peter Pan’
Albizia julibrissen – Silk Tree
Astelia chathamica
Banksia integrifolia -Coast Banksia
Brachyglottis ‘Otari Cloud’
Carex species (grasses)
Celmisia species
Chionochloa (grasses)
Coprosma ‘Autumn Haze’,Black Cloud’
Coprosma ‘Hawera’
Coprosma ‘Pride’

Coprosma robusta - Kakaramu Cordyline australis - Cabbage tree
Corokia ‘Geentys’, ‘Sunsplash’
Cortaderia toetoe - Toetoe
Cupressus arizonica
Dodonaea viscosa - Ake ake
Fuschia procumbens
Gleditsia ‘Sun Burst’ & ‘Ruby Lace’
Griselinia littoralis - Broadleaf
Hebe(s) generally
Kunzea ericioides – Kanuka
Leptinella
Leptospermum varieties
Libertia ixioides & peregrinans

Myosotidium hortensia – Forget-me-not
Olearia paniculata

Pachystegia insignis - Rock Daisy
Phormium - Flaxes generally
Pimelea prostrata & urvilleana
Pittosporum crassifolium - Karo
Pittosporum tenuifolium - Kohuhu
Poa (grasses)
Pseudopanax crassifolius- Lancewood
Raoulia species (mat plants)
Scleranthus brockiei
Sophora prostrata & tetraptera (Kowhai)
Thuja plicata – Western red Cedar

*SHADE* Plants that grow well in full sun, also do ok in light shade - these are not included in the following list. This list only includes those that will grow ok in moderate (or heavier) shade.
	Full Sun	Light Shade	Moderate Shade	Heavy Shade	Very Heavy Shade
Agapanthus ‘Peter Pan’	*	*	*
Anemanthele lessoniana - Gossamer grass	*	*	*
Asplenium bulbiferum – Hen & Chicken fern			*	*
Astelia chathamica	*	*	*
Astelia ‘Tikitere’	*	*	*
Blechnum novae-zelandiae	*	*	*	*
Carex dipsacea	*	*	*
Chionochloa flavicans	*	*	*
Dianella nigra – Turutu	*	*	*
Dacrydium cupressinum - Rimu	*	*	*
Dacrycarpus dacrydioides - Kahikatea	*	*	*
Fuschia procumbens (groundcover)	*	*	*
Griselinia littoralis - Broadleaf	*	*	*
Myosotidium hortensia - Forget-me-not		*	*
Laurelia novae zelandiae - Pukatea		*	*	*
Leptinella	*	*	*
Libertia ixioides & peregrinans	*	*	*
Nothofagus fusca, menziesii – Beeches	*	*	*
Olearia cheesemanii - Streamside Tree Daisy	*	*	*
Pittosporum crassifolium – Karo	*	*	*
Pittosporum eugenioides – Lemonwood	*	*	*
Pratia angulata	*	*	*
Pseudopanax ‘Gold Splash’, Cyril Watson’	*	*	*
Pseudopanax lessonii purpurea	*	*	*
Pseudopanax laetus – Fivefinger	*	*	*
Pseudowintera colorata – Pepperwood	*	*	*
Uncinia Tepuna Red	*	*	*

*WET SOIL*
Acacia melanoxylon - Blackwood Acer rubrum – Red Maple Alnus rubra - Red Alder Carex buchananii, dipsacea & secta (grasses) Chionochloa rubra – Red Tussock	Cordyline australis – Cabbage Tree Cortaderia toetoe - Toetoe Fuschia excorticata - Kotukutuku Isotoma fluviatile (groundcover) Dacrycarpus dacrydioides - Kahikatea Laurelia novae zelandiae - Pukatea Leptospermums (Manuka) generally Liquidamber styraciflua	Phormium tenax - Swamp Flax Picea sitchensis – Sitka Spruce Pratia angulata Quercus palustris - Pin Oak Taxodium distichum - Swamp Cypress Thuja plicata – Western Red Cedar
*DRY SOIL*	*(Tolerant of drought - high on banks or steep hills - but not necessarily extreme conditions such as up on a mountain or sand dunes or exposed coastal*
Agapanthus ‘Peter Pan’ Acer pseudoplatanus - Sycamore Albizia julibrissin – Silk Tree Alnus cordata - Italian Alder Anemanthele lessoniana (grass) Aristotelia serrata - Wineberry Banksia integrifolia - Coast Banksia Brachyglottis ‘Otari Cloud’ Carex flagellifera, testacea (grasses) Cedrus deodara - Himalayan cedar Celmisia mackaui Chamaecytisus palmensis - Tree lucerne Chionochloa flavicans (grass) Coprosma ‘Autumn Haze’, ‘Black Cloud’ Coprosma Hawera	Coprosma ‘Pride’ Coprosma robusta - Kakaramu Cornus capitata - Strawberry tree Corokia ‘Geentys Green’, ‘Sunsplash’ Cortaderia toetoe - Toetoe Dianella nigra - Turutu Dodonea viscosa (& purpurea) -Ake Fraxinus excelsior aurea – Golden Ash Gleditsia ‘Ruby Lace’, ‘Sun Burst’ Griselinia littoralis - Broadleaf Hebe(s) generally -incl stricta Kunzea ericoides - Kanuka	Libertia ixioides & peregrinans - Iris Ophiopogon – Mondo grass Pachystegia insignis - Rock Daisy Phormium (flax) generally Picea sitchensis - Sitka spruce Pittosporum crassifolium - Karo Pittosporum tenuifolium (& cultivars) Pimelea prostrata, urvilleana Platanus acerifolia – London Plane Poa colensoi (grass) Podocarpus totara - Totara Pseudopanax crassifolius - Lancewood Sophora tetraptera & prostrata - Kowhai Ulmus ‘Lutescens’ – Golden Elm
*ATTRACT BIRDS*
Alectryon excelsus - Titoki Aristotelia serrata - Wineberry Banksia integrifolia -Coast Banksia Chamaecytisus palmensis - Tree lucerne Coprosma robusta - Kakaramu Cordyline – Cabbage trees	Corokia ‘Geentys Green’, ‘Sunsplash’ Cornus capitata - Strawberry tree Dacrycarpus dacrydioides - Kahikatea Dianella nigra - Turutu Fuschia excorticata - Kotukutuku Griselinia littoralis - Broadleaf	Knightia excelsa - Rewarewa Phormium cookianum/tenax- flax Pittosporum tenuifolium - Kohuhu Pseudopanax - Fivefinger Sophora prostrata - Kowhai Sophora prostrata & tetraptera – Kowhai Ulmus ‘Lutescens’ – Golden Elm
*ATTRACTIVE FLOWERS*
Agapanthus Albizia julibrissen - Silk tree Brachyglottis ‘Otari cloud’ Celmisia species Convolvulus mauritanicus Cornus capitata - Strawberry tree Fuschia excorticata – Kotukutuku Fuschia procumbens (groundcover)	Hebe albicans, diosmifolia, Inspiration, Heebie Jeebie, Marie Antoinette, Mauve Kunzea ericoides - Kanuka Leptospermums - manukas Lithodora ‘Grace Ward’	Olearia cheesemanii - Tree Daisy Pachystegia insignis - Rock daisy Pratia angulata (groundcover) Prunus campanulata superba Prunus cerasifera nigra - Cherry Sophora prostrata Sophora tetraptera - Kowhai
*COLOURFUL FOLIAGE IN AUTUMN* **( = colour all through summer)***
Acer ‘Shindeshojo’ & ‘Crimson Queen’palmatum - Japanese Maples Acer palmatum atropurpurea Acer pseudoplatanus - Sycamore Acer rubrum – Red Maple Albizia julibrissin - Silk Tree	Fraxinus excelsior aurea – Golden Ash Fraxinus ‘Raywood’ – Claret Ash’ *Gleditsia ‘Ruby Lace’, ‘Sun Burst’ Ginkgo biloba Liquidamber Styraciflua - Sweet Gum	Prunus campanulata superba Prunus cerasifera nigra Quercus palustris – Pin Oak Taxodium distichum - Swamp Cypress Ulmus ‘Lutescens’ - Golden Elm

SOME HELPFUL INFORMATION

CONTAINERS:

Plastic pots:                 5cm square (.15L)          1 litre pot (1L)
                                    7cm square (.3L)            2 litre pot (2L)
                                    9cm square (.5L)            5 litre pot (5L) or PB8 (8-pint bag)
                                                                        10 litre pot(10L) or PB18 (18-pint bag)

The pots have root-training ribs inside to encourage root growth down the sides, that assists stability of the tree in later life. As there may be some slight root spiralling round the bottom, it is recommended that -for big trees- about a half cm of the bottom of the root mass be cut off before planting.

Sideslit Cell-trays - BCC S81 trays are used for some small grades, generally suitable for forestry, hedging and GOL's (growing on lines), etc. In these containers, roots are trained downward by ribs; and some are air pruned by slots in the sides and at the bottom. There should not be any root spiralling, so root trimming should not be needed.

BEFORE PLANTING:

Care of Plants - water sufficiently often to avoid complete drying of the mix. If frequent automatic watering is not available, it is recommended that they be kept in shade, particularly in hot weather (they can dry out very quickly).

Weed Control - Weeds near the plant are voracious users of soil moisture. Big, vigorous weeds like blackberry, gorse, bracken are worst, but even ordinary grass is bad news around young plants. Get rid of weeds near the plant and it is much more likely to survive the summer.

Weeds should be removed either by spraying or by mulching; not by cultivation (which opens up the soil to greater moisture loss and causes new germination of weeds). If spraying is the answer; select a spray that has no activity in the soil, and spray weeds in an area about 1m diameter for each plant, before planting. It is probably easiest to wait until the sprayed weeds are visibly yellowing, then plant the plant.

TIME OF PLANTING:

It is a good idea to plant well before the summer - to give roots time to grow down to moister depths before it gets too dry. Autumn, or early winter ideally - except - it would be better to wait till spring -
âIn heavy frost areas, if plants are not fully frost hardy.
âIf there might be a significant problem with damage by animals.

They should be in the ground by the end of September (or October perhaps, if they can be watered over summer).

PLANTING:

Give the plants a thorough watering just before planting. If soil is naturally free-draining, a planting hole slightly wider and slightly deeper than the root mass would be sufficient. If soil is heavy, cultivation of soil over a bigger area and below the plant would be worthwhile.

Fertilizer may be mixed in with the soil around the plant – however
âIt should be a slow-release fertilizer (otherwise a quick “dump” of fertilizer could damage the roots).

âA low rate is best; particularly with fast-growing trees (incl Alnus, Eucalyptus, most conifers); (otherwise fast growth may result in instability and wind damage).
âSome plants don’t like fertilizer (eg Banksia, Acacia, Robinia).

Carefully remove the root mass from the container and cut off the bottom of the root mass as recommended (disturbing the roots as little as possible). Place root mass in the hole and firm soil round and over the roots, a little deeper (2-3cm) than in the container. It is desirable to avoid multiple trunks forming, as this is a common cause of wind-splitting later - prune off multiple stems at ground level.

AFTER PLANTING:

In higher drying conditions (summer, exposed to wind, light soils) watering may be desirable for the first few months. Plants more than about 50cm high may need staking against wind (small plants are better here).

Mulching is a good way of protecting the plant over the hot season. It reduces soil moisture loss, keeps the soil cooler, and suppresses weeds. Bark is probably the best mulch - a 10cm layer should be sufficient to stop most weed growth. Other useful mulches are sawdust, stones, plastic weed-matting, grass-clippings, hay (but expect a lot of weed germination from seeds in it).
Later in summer, any new weeds arising should be removed.

Animals - Precautions need to be taken against damage by animals (including rabbits, hares, opposums, goats, pukekos, farm stock and others I haven’t thought of!) Animals often cause serious damage! and need to be prepared for in advance. In addition to normal methods for control of wild animals (such as poisoning, shooting etc.), serious consideration should be given to using an animal-repellent on the plants (see our Pricelist).

Stock will cause serious damage to foliage and bark if not kept away by secure fencing. Trees that are for low-level shelter must be securely fenced off for all of their life, or stock will eat the bottom branches.

NATIVE PLANTS:

It would pay to refer to a more detailed description on this subject.
Weed Control - is critical. Aggressive plants (such as gorse, blackberry, bracken) are worst, but ordinary grasses may also be too much competition for many natives in their first year..
Shelter - large native trees (incl Rimu, Beech, Kahikatea, Kauri, Rewarewa, Tawa, Miro, Matai,Totara) need some shelter from wind and frost for the first few years after planting. Artificial shelter could be used; or plant suitable "nurse" plants first and after (at least) three years, plant the sensitive species amongst them.
Suitable nurse plants include Chamaecytisus palmensis (Tree Lucerne) - very good, dies off naturally after about 10 years; and hardy native ‘primary’ plants listed under Suggestions.

NATIVE ALPINE PLANTS:

Most of New Zealand's small plants are from alpine (mountain) regions, or the coast. Some are hard to grow – generally, special care is needed to achieve success. There are two main problems – low tolerance of drought in hot weather, and susceptibility to fungal disease.
The most troubling is fungal root-rot – plants that one day are perfectly healthy, may wilt and die in a few days. Of the plants we have for sale, the following (I think) are susceptible to root-rot – Aciphylla, Anisotome, Celmisia, Leucogenes, Ourisia

Planting directly into the natural soil is not recommended – although this might be satisfactory, providing it is very light and friable, and it is cultivated to break up any compaction.

It is most important that the soil has very good drainage; which can be achieved by siting it on a sloping bank, or by building it up above the surrounding level with terracing. Then it will need some coarse sand and pumice or stone chip mixed in the soil; and plenty of organic matter, such as peat or compost. Finally, some different size rocks should be dug in here and there, to give a natural look, and assist in keeping the soil cool in summer.
There isn’t any magic formula for suitable soil – the following is suggested – one-third topsoil, one-third peat, one-third pumice or stone chips – all cultivated to a depth of at least 30cm. An alternative, is 40% potting mix (containing pumice or stone chip), 30% pumice, and 30% top-soil.

In the mountains, rainfall is generally heavier and more reliable than down where we live. It is not easy to maintain enough moisture during hot summers. Two things that help retain moisture, are – high organic content, and a layer of small gravel over the soil surface (this also helps keeps weeds down). A bark mulch is not ideal for the small herbaceous plants, as it stays too wet and encourages rotting during hot, wet weather.

Another good idea is to slope (at least part of) the rockery to the south, or east or west - not North, as the summer sun will make life difficult for many plants. Direct sun is needed by the plants for at least some (say half) of the day - and some plant types need partial shade during summer (may be provided by some big rocks or shrubs).

EUCALYPTUS:

Initial establishment can be difficult, as it has low tolerance of dry conditions in hot weather. It is best to plant in a cool part of the year (late autumn to early spring). Weeds and grass need to be kept away around the plant, through the first summer.